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General Use Chart
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All figures in chart below are strictly suggestions and the final decision should be made by the eye, personal preferance and experience.  Always run a sample of your project prior to sewing on the final garment.

Backing Notes:  Additional sheets of backing or combinations of backings may be necessary in some situations.  Iron-on or adhesive type backings are often helpful to add to knits, along with the recommended cutaway.  A woven type like Polymesh or Weblon (not on chart below) is another backing that has shown good results with knits.  Occassionally, even solvy topping or wax paper can be used as backing for delicate fabrics.

Needle Notes:  Some folks use a 75/11 needle for most general projects.  If problems occur, try one recommended by chart.  If you find holes occurring in your garments around the design, you probably are using a sharp point needle; switch to a ball point needle.

Density is explained in "SPI"  (stitches per inch).
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Fabric  Description  Underlay  Density  Backing  Topping  Needle  Other Considerations
Corduroy Thick Woven Lines Heavy  65 SPI Tearaway  Yes 80/12 Sharp Increase column width
Coated Fabric Woven and coated Moderate  55 SPI  Tearaway None 80/12 Sharp Teflon  Slower sewing speed
Knit - heavy Evenly loose Heavy  60 SPI  Cutaway Yes 80/12 Ball point Woven and/or Iron-on backing for some situations
Knit Pique Textured Knit Heavy  60 SPI  Cutaway Yes  70/10 Ball Point Woven and/or Iron-on backing for some situations
Leather Nonwoven - thick Heavy  50 SPI  Tearaway None  70/11 Ball or Sharp, up to
80/12 Wedge		 Size & point of needle depends on weight of leather. Needs longer stitch length and less density.
Satin Woven-dense-delicate Moderate  60 SPI  None None 70/10 Sharp Use double-high, wrapped hoop 
Silk Woven light - delicate None  55 SPI  Tearaway None 65/9 Sharp Slower sewing speed
Spandex Knit - synthetic fibers Heavy  60 SPI  Cutaway None 70/10 Lt. Ball Slower sewing speed
Sweats Knit - heavy - thick Heavy  65 SPI  Cutaway Yes 80/12 Ball point Increase column width
Terry Woven - looped fibers Heavy  65 SPI  Tearaway Yes 75/11 Sharp Increase column width

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Copyright © 1995-2006, Bonnie Landsberger, Moonlight Design.  All Rights Reserved.